When I started this blog, my intention was to provide information about various ways and products to improve the sustainability, energy efficiency and or healthiness of your home.  As an ASHI home inspector for the past 10 years, I have seen countless “improvements” or “upgrades…some with the best of intentions, and some, well let’s just say misdirected!  Sometimes the results are good but sometimes things go horribly bad.

As part of the economic stimulus plan, the federal government is offering tax credits for a wide range of energy-efficient products, from windows and doors to solar water heaters.  This can be a great program helping people to improve their homes.  However, these increases in efficiency if not planned with the “whole house” in mind, could lead to some serious “unintended consequences”.   As we start to increase the efficiency of homes, building science comes more and more into play as we must take into consideration what negative effects may be brought on.

One of the most common improvements is to upgrade or replace the heating and air conditioning system.  This used to be a relatively straight forward job. You just replaced the existing system with an equivalent system.  These days, with the very high efficiency systems and different options available like variable speed fans, there really needs to be new calculations done to determine exactly what size is needed.  If other energy improvements have been made to the house such as additional insulation or high efficiency windows and doors, it’s even more important.

For example: Say that the existing system in a home was installed in the mid “90’s and is perhaps a 3 ton system and the SEER (Seasonal Energy Efficiency Rating) rating might be 10.  Now with a little encouragement from the government and a desire to decrease energy bills, the home is upgraded to a new 14 or 15 SEER system with perhaps a variable speed fan.  If it is replaced with a similar sized 3 ton system, the home could develop humidity and mold related issues as it may be oversized.  When all these factors are not taken into consideration, you end up with at best a poorly performing system but at worst what a colleage calls “a science project” in your home.  Excessive humidity, mold, poor indoor air quality and increased rather than decreased energy consumption could result.

This is just one example dealing with heating and air conditioning, but there are often “unintended consequences” from any high efficiency upgrade.  Just remember that changing one system in the home often affects another. Does this mean that you should shy away from improvements for fear of related problems? Of course not, but keep in mind these things:

• Do your homework on the improvement you are planning.  Is it the best for your money?  Are there known downsides?
• Hire a reputable contractor who is knowledgeable about and willing to discuss the interactions of the systems in the home.
• Never accept the explanation “that’s the way we always do it”.   The times they are a changin!

From Eco Green Fire

Many people feel that having a fireplace in the home is a necessity.  Even here in Florida, there are many existing homes that have them and in new construction homes it is a popular option.  Certainly not needed in some parts of the country, a fireplace speaks to some inner need or childhood memory.  I have to admit that there are often times when we say how nice it would be to have a fire going there in the corner of the room.  If we put our emotions aside and think practically, it’s easy to see a number of downsides to the traditional fireplace.  For one, it’s an energy hole.  Most of the air that it heats gets sucked out of the chimney.  Another downside is that whatever you burn in that fireplace contributes to air pollution and it destroys trees.  If the tree harvesting is done in a sustainable responsible way, there’s not much problem but generally it is unmanaged.  The faint smell of a single fireplace on a cold morning may be quite pleasant, but think about what it would be like if all the homes were burning wood or coal!

If you have an existing fireplace in your home, think about what you really want to do with it.  If you never use it, consider hiring a qualified contractor or Chimney Sweep to properly seal it off to reduce energy loss.

If you must keep the fireplace for the ambiance and plan to use it only occasionally, then burning some wood or fossil fuel, while not being very green probably is probably the best choice.  Keep in mind thought that some states have restrictions on fireplace usage, so check to see what is allowed in your area.  If you’re going to burn wood, here are some tips from the www.GreenLivingIdeas.com  site:  

• Buy local wood harvested by the owner of a woodlot who has an investment in the sustainable management of his acreage.
• Only burn dry hardwoods.  Wood energy is a function of the dry (cured) weight of the wood.  Dense, heavy species such as oak, hickory, or eucalyptus give more heat for a given piece of wood, and burning these is thus a more efficient use of a tree than burning lightweight woods like pine and fir.  Burning green, uncured wood produces a lot of polluting smoke and is also inefficient, since much of the heat is used to drive off the water (if you can even get the stuff to light).
• Replace your old wood stove.  Use a properly sized, installed, and maintained appliance with an EPA rating.  In the 1980’s, the EPA began limiting the sale of new stoves to clean-burning designs.  They produce 90% less air pollution and are at least 30% more efficient than the old stoves, but there are still many old smoke-spouters around.  Don’t get an old, illegal stove—it may be cheap, but it’s not a bargain for the environment or for your safety.
• Never burn garbage, chemically treated wood, or plywood, as it sends poisons into the air.
• Insulate and weather-seal your house.  Don’t waste those BTUs!

If you’re building a new fireplace or plan to use your existing one quite a bit, there are many options out there.  Consider Biofuel options such as:

• Cordwood – existing fireplaces, energy-efficient fireplace inserts, manufactured fireplace logs, advanced combustion fireplaces, woodstoves, clad woodstoves and masonry heaters  Read more at Woodheat.org  and Masonry Heater Association of North America
• Pellet stoves – Department of Energy info
• Ethanol gel fireplaces and Denatured alcohol fires such as EcoSmart Fire

If you’re planning to use artificial logs, make sure that they are made from recycled wood waste from lumber milling.  Look for manufactured logs that contain no paraffin, a petroleum product that emits toxins into the air when burned.

As with all things, it’s important to do your homework whether keeping an existing fireplace or adding one. Consider the climate you’re in, the location, whether you want heat or ambiance, and how often you use it when making your decision.

In many parts of the country, swimming pools or spas are an integral part of the home picture.  In the hot climates, some people may consider them to be a necessity to escape the heat.  For others it may be the fulfillment of a dream, or it was just a part of the home that they built.  Regardless of why you have the pool, there are many features of it that you need to consider. 

•       It takes a large amount of clean water to fill and maintain it
•       It takes a considerable amount of energy to operate the filtering and circulation equipment
•       If a heated pool is desired, it takes a considerable amount of energy to make a difference
•       In most pools chemicals are required which when drained off during a rainy season can damage vegetation and runoff into the water system

Today there are an increasing number of alternatives available which help you to save money while maintaining your pool, reduce your exposure to harsh chemicals and reduce your impact on the environment such as solar pool pumps and chlorine free sanitation systems.

There are also some fairly simple things that you can do such as covering your pool.  An uncovered pool can loose up to 1½ times its total volume in one year through evaporation.  It can take hundreds of gallons of clean water to raise the level back to an acceptable level.  The installation of a relatively inexpensive pool cover will not only reduce the evaporative loss, but will help retain heat, extending the swimming season without additional energy costs.  Another benefit is that covers reduce the loss of the chemicals required to keep the pool healthy.  For a real quick and inexpensive fix, buy a large sheet of plastic and cut it to fit.  It won’t last that long, and it will be difficult to use, but it will help.  It may also convince you that it would be worth it to invest in a better cover such as a solar cover.  If your pool is heated, it’s even more important to cover it, as warm water evaporates quicker.

Talk to your local pool maintenance company for specifics on what methods are effective in your area.

My Friends Dick and Karla Nielsen beat me out of the gate on publishing an article on the use of rain barrels. Here’s what they have to say: 

“With Florida’s dry season ahead, wouldn’t it be great if we could conserve rain when we do get it to use for those dry spells?  You can!  And you do it with a rain barrel.

Every time it rains, the roofs on our homes act as collectors for thousands of gallons of rain water and channel it to the ground typically though gutters and downspouts.  Unless this water is “harvested”, it is unavailable for future use for irrigating our lawns, washing our cars and other non-potable tasks.

Rain barrels function cheaply and easily as small cisterns to capture and hold roof run-off.  For centuries, cisterns have been used as a way of keeping a supply of water, most often in water deficient locations.  Today, storing rainwater also aids in the reduction of storm water runoff, which can help reduce the levels of pesticides and fertilizers that drain into ponds, streams and lakes.  With an eye toward the conservation of resources and dollars, rain barrels are now coming into the American mainstream.

Rain barrels are relatively inexpensive, come in all sizes and shapes and are self-contained in design.  To determine the best size for your needs, consider your garden’s size and your area’s level of rainfall.  (Also be sure to check your community’s deed restrictions).

The Hillsborough County Extension Service has partnered with the Hillsborough County Water Resource

 Department to offer rain barrel workshops that include a free 55 gallon rain barrel (1 for each Hillsborough County household) plus help in assembling the system.”

Although this mentions Florida, water conservation methods and rainwater harvesting are universal for all areas.  Not only is it good for the environment, it can be good for the pocketbook by reducing utility costs.  

Most people think of the 55 gal blue or reddish plastic barrels.  These of course are often the cheapest and most readily available.  If you’re having trouble finding one, try an online source such as Craiglist.  A simple search will turn up dozens of suppliers for all types of barrels.  A container can be anything from a plastic box, to an oak barrel.  There are some quite attractive designs such as the one on the right made by Algreen Products.  Click the image for additional information and to see others.  

Got an interesting or creative rain barrel installation?  I’d love to hear about it.  Please leave a comment below!

Dick and Karla are Real Estate Consultants in the Tampa Bay area with over 35 years of experience.  www.DickandKarla.com

Okay, I couldn’t resist the making the connection of the bathroom and smells.  There’s a lot of odiferous stimulation going that goes on in the “loo”.  Besides the obvious there are also sprays, perfumes, cleaners, mold, dirty clothes, etc, etc.  One of the smells that used to bother me quite a bit, until we quit using them, is those plastic shower curtains.  Think about that strong, acrid smell when you first open up most of those plastic shower curtains.  There is some serious off-gassing of VOC’s going on there and it’s never good for your health.  I’ve written about VOC’s in other articles so I won’t repeat myself.  Not only are these items generally made of PVC, but they are often treated with a number of chemicals to reduce mold and bacterial buildup.  A June 2008 report by the Center for Health, Environment and Justice, (a non-profit environmental organization) noted a study that found that over seven days, one new PVC shower curtain will release VOC’s that exceed the guidelines for indoor air quality established by the U.S. Green Building Council.  

This is an easy one to take care of…  Just don’t buy the shower curtains and liners made with PVC’s.  There is a more information about volatile vinyl as well as a link to a list of PVC and PVC-free shower curtains at major retailers at this site:  Center for Health, Environment & Justice

Unfortunately, prices for alternative products can still be a bit high.  They are sure to come down with more and more acceptance, but in the meantime, it’s easy to pick the cheap and nasty one over the unreasonable one.  Most people would just say open the window!  We just have to think about the long term effects on our health and not the short term effect on the pocketbook.  

There is a wealth of information available on the net. An article on “thedailygreen” blog is a good place to start.  thedailygreen

What are you using as an alternative?  Please post a comment!

New Year’s resolutions…I have to admit that I’ve never really been much for them.  The tendency is to set unrealistic goals, then feel bad because you didn’t achieve them.  In a year where uncertainty and disappointments seem to be lurking behind every corner, why beat yourself up?  The key is to set some realistic goals that only require small steps.  This past year, I began working towards a “greener” lifestyle and trying to help pass on information about improving your home and lifestyle.  For 2009, I’ll continue to take my “one small step at a time” approach.  Here is a partial list of 2009 Resolutions:

• I’ll spend less time and energy on the negatives such as whether global warming exists or whether everything I do helps protect some microbe I’ve never heard of. Instead, I’ll concentrate on the positives that people are doing every day to improve quality of life.
• I’ll carry a reusable bag to the shops and reduce the use of plastic bags.  If I can remember the words to ABBA songs without ever having owned one, I should be able to remember something important!
• I’ll cut down on driving…by combining short trips, and enjoying spending time around the house.  Less gas to buy, more projects done at home.
• If I have to replace an appliance, I’ll make sure that its energy star rated.  Not only will it save energy, but that saved energy is saved money!
• I’m going to think twice about adding more of the latest gadgets to my seemingly endless collection.  Having a closet full of E-waste, or all those other trendy items does not in the long run really improve my quality of life!

In order to make any substantial long term changes, what is really needed is a change of thinking about all our actions and purchase decisions.  What small steps are you planning to do this year?  Please leave a comment and add to the list!

Not too long ago, I did a post about not using Cypress mulch in your yard. Now it’s time to talk a bit about what you can use.  Simply put, mulching is providing a layer of material such as bark, gravel, pine needles etc, around landscape plants. Some of the reasons to mulch include:

• Retaining soil moisture
• Reducing heat at the soil surface
• Prevention of weed growth
• In some areas, to reduce heaving of roots as a result of freezing and thawing of the soil
• Add organic material to the soil if organic material is used
• Reduce soil erosion on slopes
• Improve appearance and add to property value

The depth of the mulch is very important and the generally accepted rule is around 2.5 to 3 inches. Too shallow and it just doesn’t work..you might as well not use any. If the mulch is too deep there are many potential problems as this leads to:

• Water logged soil and rot of roots and plants
• Conditions favorable to disease development
• A haven for rodents

• Animal manures
• Composts
• Composted municipal sludge.  Trade names such as Earthlife™, Comtil™, TechnaGro™ among others
• Hulls, cobs and shells
• Sphagnum peat moss/muck peat
• Pine needles
• Straw
• Wood products
• Shredded, chip or chunk bark
• Wood Chips or shavings
• Waste wood

Rubber Mulch – much hyped as not only a way to get rid of the millions of discarded tires around the world, but completely harmless long-lasting mulch. There is however a considerable amount of controversy that surrounds the issue. Some studies show that it leaches zinc into the soil killing plants; that it can be a fire hazard dangerous to place near buildings; and that it can smell very bad. There may not be a good answer right now, so make sure to do your homework. One thing that bothers me a bit is the word “permanent”. Is something “permanent” in your yard really a good thing?

Remember that there are always unintended consequences of all actions. By over mulching areas or using plastic ground covers you affect other habitats such as ground nesting bees.

Stained Concrete Floors

One of the more common upgrades to a home, whether you’ve just bought one, trying to sell one, or just living with what you have is the flooring.  Flooring is a wearable item which not only significantly enhances your home, but in some cases it can make it unhealthy. Certain types of carpet, carpet pad, tack strips and carpet glues emit VOC’s that contribute to poor air quality Laminate and engineered flooring can release the same compounds into the air.

To ensure that the flooring doesn’t contribute to poor air quality look for the following:

• Carpet with Carpet and Rug Institute (CRI) green seal of approval (www.carpet-rug.com) that also uses a synthetic fiber or virgin urethane pad and no glues used for installation.
• Linoleum or cork tile/sheet with water based adhesive.
• Ceramic tile
• Hard surface flooring ( wood, bamboo, etc) that is mechanically fastened or attached with a water based adhesive.
• Laminate flooring (wood, cork, etc.) with no urea-formaldehyde and glueless or water based glue installation.
• Concrete (stamped, stained, etc.)
• Flooring listed under the Resilient Floor Covering Institute (RFCI) floor score program.  www.rfci.com

Bamboo Flooring

There are many more options today for flooring that is environmentally friendly, sustainable and will not contribute to poor indoor air quality.

• Wood 
• Bamboo
• Concrete
• Recycled materials

Salvaged wood floors

When choosing flooring, it’s important to also consider the eco-friendly features such as:

• Domestically produced hardwood materials from sustainably managed forests
• Bamboo flooring
• Reuse of salvaged wood
• Floor tiles made from recycled glass or other 100% recycled material
• Cork flooring
• Natural linoleum
• Concrete (stamped, stained, etc.)
• Recycled content carpet/carpet pad and rugs: Carpet/rugs should have a minimum recycled content of 80% with 60% post consumer recycled content or be 100% PET plastic. Carpet pads should have 80% recycled content. Examples include 80% post consumer tires, 80% nylon, 100% recycled newsprint and 80% textile waste
• Natural content carpet/carpet pad and rugs: Carpets/rugs should be composed of 100% natural materials such as wool, sisal, jute, and hemp. Carpet pads should also be of a natural material such as 85% recycled burlap bags made from fibrous jute plants.  

While finding these alternative products is easier than it once was, it can be a bit more challenging, and you have to work a bit harder to find the bargains.  In the long run however, it will pay off with improved indoor air quality and potentially higher resale values of the home.

It’s that time of year again…you know, the time when we drag out all the boxes of holiday decorations and lights and go about that annual process of filling our homes and yards with an abundance (sometimes overabundance) of holiday cheer.  Invariably as you pull out the strings of lights and plug them in, you find that there are always quite a few not working.  I’ll be honest, I’ve tried locating which ones were out so that I can salvage the string, but the string always wins that battle.  Each year, it’s a trip down to whatever is the closest store to pick up another string or two.  Now however, I’ve finally come to the realization that perhaps there is a better way.   Read More

Take a look around your closets at home and what do you see the most of?  Hopefully not those ’70’s disco clothes and shoes you’re still holding onto!  The most common item found in most closets is the wire coat hanger. The Organic Consumers Association estimates that 3.5 billion wire hangers are used each year by the dry cleaning industry alone. As these are generally made of steel, this amounts to 195 million pounds of steel used for production.  Since steel is one of the more easily recycled products, you would think that there was a happy answer here, but the hanger network estimates that about 3.5 Billion hangers end up in the landfill each year.  That’s about 60,000 cars!  Wire hangers also take about 100 years to decompose in the landfill.  So what can we do? Read More